Saturday, January 28, 2012

Aloha

Almost 2 months ago, after the madness that is Thanksgiving with my family, after my soul once again found peace in a beautiful mountain sunset, but before my whirlwind trip back to our little island for the long-awaited arrival of my husband; way back on December 8th, I wrote about attending the 70th anniversary commemoration ceremony at Pearl Harbor.  Most of you probably assumed that I didn’t fly literally half way around the world only to spend a single day in Hawaii.  You assumed correctly.

Let me start this story from the very beginning.  Way back in September, just as I was getting really tired of studying and really, really starting to miss my Chris, my wonderful Aunt Kathy asked me if I wanted to join her, my Uncle Dale, and their daughter Hannah on a trip to Hawaii.  Dale wanted to be on Oahu for the 70th anniversary of the Pearl Harbor attacks and they were going to make a family vacation of it. 
My initial reaction was, of course I want to go!  Then the other side of my brain kicked in and said, “Are you crazy, you’re already going on one amazing vacation while you’re in the US and your husband is stuck Afghanistan.  How can you even think of going on another?”  So, I did what I always do when I can’t talk over something with my husband, I called my mom.  I asked her if I was crazy for wanting to go.  She told me that Chris would be upset if he knew I passed up this opportunity just because I felt guilty.  She, of course, was right.  Days later, when I was finally able to talk to Chris, he said exactly what Mom said he would, “Go have, have fun.”  Then he added, “Just don’t send me any pictures.  I don’t want to think about how much better any place would be than here until I’m home.”
Fast forward a few months.  After spending a few lovely days with Dale, Kathy, and Hannah in Denver, we boarded the plane in a Colorado blizzard and headed west to the sun and sand of Hawaii.  We arrived in Honolulu relatively late on Thursday night.  We had just enough time to pack our luggage into the rental car and head toward our hotel before the sun set.  We stopped along the way at an authentic Ramen restaurant for a delicious dinner.  We arrived at our beautiful penthouse condo and collapsed into bed.  A 6 hour time difference can be a real challenge!
Uncle Dale and I were up bright and early the next morning (once again, thank you time difference).  We sat on the balcony, enjoyed several cups of coffee, and watched the surfers tackle the waves.  Our condo was located on the world-famous Makaha surfing beach on the far west side of the island.  The beach was quiet, un-crowded and beautiful!  So beautiful, in fact, that we spent most of the day soaking up the sun and trying not to get swallowed up by the giant waves.  We did manage to pull ourselves away from the beach for a little grocery shopping before returning to watch the sunset.  We also managed to catch a glimpse of our very first sea turtles on our way back into Makaha for dinner.  It was so cool to see them just hanging out on the beach.

Saturday morning, I joined Dale and Kathy for a trip to the local farmers’ market.  We found loads of fresh produce, and a few gifts to take back to our friends and family. 
Saturday afternoon, we all loaded in the rental car for a trip to the Dole Pineapple plantation.  We took a ride on the VERY cheesy Pineapple Express train to see the inner workings of the plantation.  Then, we took a long walk through Dole’s beautiful botanical garden.  The audio guide provided information on the native Hawaiian traditions associated with each of the plants, flowers, fruits and trees. 

This was by far the best part of the Dole Plantation.  We finished up our visit with a trip through the enormous gift shop and sampled the supposedly-famous pineapple whip (kind of like pineapple gelato, but not quite).  We finished our day with a hula show on Waikiki beach.  Who needs to pay hundreds of dollars per person to watch a show from the back of a crowded resort when you can watch up close and personal for free?  I even took a couple of videos for those of you who weren’t able to make the trip with us.


Sunday morning was one of the highlights of the trip for me.  I got the opportunity to use my newly-acquired PADI scuba certification to check out Hawaii’s amazing underwater life.  We started at Black Rock, which I found out later was in plain view of our condo.  We dove down under Black Rock, a large lava finger sticking out into the ocean, and then made our way back up the side of the rock over the next thirty minutes. Our second dive was along the reef that protects Makaha’s harbor.  We saw all sorts of colorful fish and coral.  The crown jewel of the day was an octopus sighting!  I can’t even describe how unbelievable it was to see the octopus change color to blend in with its surroundings as it moved along the reef.  Unfortunately, my underwater camera wasn’t rated to go as deep as we were planning to dive, so I don’t have any pictures.  I promise there will be snorkeling pictures later.
After spending most of the rest of Sunday recovering from my dives (it’s exhausting swimming for that long), I was happy for an early start to our action-packed Monday.  Monday was finally the day we would get to see Pearl Harbor.  We arrived just as the park opened only to find out they were already out of tickets for the USS Arizona Memorial.  A little disheartened at having to come back the next day, we decided to visit everything we could so our visit on Tuesday would be as sort as possible. 

We started with the USS Bowfin submarine.  I now know that I could never work on a submarine – I am entirely too tall.  I would hit my head on everything!  I’m not sure how Dale even made it through the tour.  He has at least six inches on me.  However, it was fascinating to see how everything from the kitchen to the torpedo room was crammed into such a small space.  Next, we walked through the exhibits about the Pearl Harbor attack itself.  The historical accounts, old uniforms, and even a Japanese torpedo paint a clear picture of what Pearl Harbor must have been like, not only during the attack, but in the days leading up to it as well. 

At some point during our walk through the exhibits, Kathy managed to talk a park ranger out of a few tickets for the USS Arizona memorial.  I don’t know how she did it, but she is amazing!  We finished the museum with just enough time to get in line for the short boat ride over to the memorial.  The memorial is very well done.  Gleaming white concrete respectfully straddles the final resting place of over a thousand young sailors and marines, allowing visitors to peer down into the water at the rusting ship’s hull.  The wall listing their names is a haunting reminder of how many lives were lost on that ship alone.

Upon returning to the visitors’ center, we boarded a bus for a short trip to Ford Island.  Ford Island is home to the Battleship Missouri and the Pacific Aviation Museum; our next two stops.  Our tour of the Battleship Missouri started with thirty minutes of color commentary care of a feisty… we’ll call him feisty… older gentleman.  He told us all about the Missouri’s huge guns (they shake the entire deck when fired) and the day the Japanese surrendered WWII on the ship’s deck.  After our tour, I took a quick look around under the deck of the ship.  At least it started out as a quick look around.  I got lost somewhere between the library and the kitchen.  The only way out was to follow the arrows all the way through the ship.  Oh well, it was interesting to see all the ship’s facilities.  My favorite was the dentist’s office. 

Our final Pearl Harbor stop of the day was at the Pacific Aviation Museum.  The museum’s first hanger was filled with airplanes from WWII, the Korean War, and Vietnam.  The second hanger was home to the museum’s repair shop and several more modern aircraft.  Both of the museum’s hangers sustained damage during the attack on Pearl Harbor, and bullet holes were still visible in some of the small glass windows.  We wrapped up our evening with a walk through China town and dinner at Cheese Burger in Paradise (seemed appropriate given our location).

Tuesday morning started out nice and slow – coffee on the balcony and a big brunch before hitting the road for the North Shore.  Along the way, we made a stop at Schofield Barracks to check out the Tropic Lightening Museum/  Dale was looking for information on my great Uncle Richard.  He was killed on Okinawa during WWII and he, along with one of his brothers and my grandfather on the other side of the family, passed through Schofield barracks during their time in the Army during WWII.  Kathy, Hannah, and I read the exhibits while Dale talked with the museum researchers.
Our desire for historical knowledge satisfied, we headed for the North Shore.  We stopped in several little towns to shop and stroll along the beaches.  The waves on the North Shore were HUGE.  The lifeguards on the beaches wouldn’t let anyone near with water without a body board and flippers.  This was not the place for a casual swim.  We continued driving around the island, stopping at Turtle Bay just in time for sunset.  On the way back to the condo, we stopped at the neighborhood shrimp truck for the best shrimp I have ever had – hands down.

It’s a good thing Tuesday morning was a lazy morning, because Wednesday morning certainly was not.  Dale and I boarded the bus outside our condo at 4:45am to make our way to the Pearl Harbor 70th anniversary commemoration ceremony.  I posted about the ceremony here, so I’ll let you hop on over to that post for the details.  After the ceremony, we met up with Kathy and Hannah and drove to Hanauma Bay for an afternoon of snorkeling.  Hanauma Bay is a Marine Life Conservation Area and one of the top snorkeling areas on Oahu.  Hannah, Dale and I took to the water and enjoyed looking at the fish and coral.  Hannah and I even got to see a sea turtle up close!  So cool.

Our final day in Hawaii started out with another leisurely breakfast and a final day of watching the surfers and the sunrise.  Then, it was time to cross the last few “must-dos” off our list.  Hannah and I started by climbing to the rim of Diamond Head Crater for a spectacular view of Honolulu.  We rewarded ourselves for a successful climb with a nice, big snow cone!
Our next stop was Punchbowl National Cemetery.  It was, here, once again surrounded by the graves of so many, that the hundreds of years of European history I had been absorbing during our travels came full circle.  All the conquests, kings, and revolutions had culminated in the events of WWII.  Suddenly, history wasn’t just happening in Europe.  It had spilled over onto American soil, and this cemetery was a solemn reminder of how connected we all are.  This cemetery, much like the cemetery at Normandy, was meticulously maintained.  Marble headstones clearly marked the thousands of graves spread out over the idyllic hills.  Huge murals depicting many of the most significant battles of the three American wars in the Pacific (WWII, Korea and Vietnam) circled the Court of Honor.  These murals were what really connected Punchbowl to Normandy in my mind.

With the Hawaiian story of WWII completed, we drove east toward Nu’uanu Pali lookout, a location recommended to Dale and Kathy by a couple they met at a local church.  The recommendation was spot on.  What a view!!  The lookout is at the top of a ridge separating the eastern shore from the rest of the island.  The narrow pass makes for VERY windy conditions.  I could hardly stand in a few places because the wind was so strong.
Our final stop of the vacation was for dinner on the way to the airport.  We took another local recommendation and ended up at a wonderful walk-up shop called Sweet Home Waimanalo.  To say the food was amazing is an understatement.  The best part - purple sweet potatoes!

All in all, this was an amazing vacation.  I can’t wait to go back with Chris some day!  Check out the pictures tab for the entire photo album.

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